Sunday, 4 August 2013

Approaching Brisbane

Monday 5th August 2013

Well, what a time we have had of it!! Had to heave to twice more with really bad squalls, the mainsail has been reefed and unreefed, the front sails in and out, and the wind has stayed firmly on our nose and we have had 24 hours of adverse current that held us back 2 miles every hour. (Now it has decided to go with us!). So the trusty engine has been doing its business. This morning early we had our first real time of ship dodging, and then there was the spectacular Aussie sunrise.
 
We are now on target to get in to the marina at Rivergate for the officials some time tomorrow. Trying now to tidy up and make sure we do not have any banned food items.

26deg21S and 153deg50E

Motoring along

Coral Sea, 3 August 2013

Well, after all the misery of the previous week, we have now gone to the other extreme - no wind. We had to spend 36 hours hove to as the wind was strong and right from where we wanted to go. That and the heavy seas made progress impossible, even if we had used the engine. So we stopped for the first time in over 16,000 miles. Not much could be done except read and twiddle thumbs as the motion of the boat, while much better than when we were bashing into the seas, was still rocky. But not too bad. So we kept looking at the forecast and lo and behold we were able to sail a further 24 hours quite briskly, albeit to windward (that is the leaning over with water coming over the side decks kind for the land lubbers - where we walk like haggis around the mountain with one leg shorter than the other). Then as predicted it all stopped. 
 
So here we are in the sunshine at last, cool breeze, motoring along. It has been a productive morning sorting out the things that has been bounced out of place, a bit of dusting and wiping down, some washing hung out to blow dry in the sun, bread made for the first time this trip (Ryvita biscuits are OK - but not every day!). Then there was the planning for the entry into Brisbane. This is not the easiest to work out. The passage will take us about 10 hours after getting to the fairway buoy at Caloundra Head, which is longer than a tide, so we need to time it to minimise the adverse ebb tide as we come in. So we look as though we will have to start the passage down the fairway at about 2 AM (ugh). So we have now written all the marks and direction changes so we can tick them off as we pass them and by this means get to the marina without going aground on the shallow bits. Should be in by lunchtime. We have done the notification procedure, got rid of most of the forbidden food - the last of the rice will go tomorrow or the next day. 
 
Dead excited.

Dave is continually doing sums to make sure we have enough diesel. At the present rate of consumption, a bit less than that of the Queen Mary, we should be OK.

Best of all for me is the cooler weather. Dave is wearing his woolly fleece and the blankies have come out for night time! This took a bit of exploration of the deep stowage as they were thought redundant to requirements!

24deg34minS and 156deg13min E

Thursday, 1 August 2013

STILL in the Coral Sea!

1 Aug 2013

We are having a bit of a trying time. We have had to heave to for a day (yesterday) which means we basically stop, except we are drifting backwards!
The problem is that the wind is against us and is relatively strong, and the waves are big and against us. We can get to Cairns or New Zealand OK, but not to Brisbane. We may have to wait a bit more, but the arrival looks to be Wednesday - perhaps earlier if the wind changes as the gribs say it should. This is the first time in over 16,000 miles we have had to heave to!
Will keep you informed.

22deg54minS and 158deg42minE
 
 

Wednesday, 31 July 2013

IN THE CORAL SEA

30 July 2013

Well, today we were able to come out of the depths of the boat into the sunshine for the first time in 2 and 1/2 days. It has been a bit trying to say the least. We have had it all again - the lumpy sea, rain wind and water over the deck. Even with fully reefed main and no fore sails we were doing over 6-7 kts. Unable to even knit - and that is tragic!
 
Poor Dave has done a sterling job of getting some food cooked, as long as I was able to hold on to things during the preparation and serving. Meals could only be things that did not take lots of hot water (in case it spilled) or complicated cooking (fewer saucepans the better). Pasta is wonderful stuff! 
 
But today we have gone to the other extreme and have no wind and have been motoring. The sea is still a bit lumpy but not nearly as bad and we were able to sit outside at last. The fresh air is so good. And scrabble is a lot better outside too! And we have been able to make cups of tea and coffee as well. We have crossed over the top of New Caledonia and are making our way very slowly towards Brisbane. We were expecting to arrive Monday next week, but the forecast has little wind so we may be a little slower. All is well and humming along much better now.

View Larger Map 
 
Best news of all is that it is getting cooler - I am so very happy that we stay under 30degrees, but Dave is mumbling something about needing a fleece soon. I think he jests!!

21deg29minS and 160deg08minE

Saturday, 27 July 2013

The Last Leg

26th July 2013

Well, here we are, back on the watery sea, bowling along on the way to Brisbane. The day before we left we had a real scurry around the far reaches of the town getting all the clearances done and the final stamps in the passports. We had to have a taxi ride this time as we would not have been able to dinghy it across the bay without looking like drowned rabbits, but the good side of the taxi ride was the big supermarket we went past. We had Dominic the driver leave us there on the way back and collect us after we had found our first real meat and cheese for lunch and meat for dinner, and veges in ages. Somehow tinned corned beef, tinned veges, tinned everything loses its appeal after a couple of years.
 
In its inimitable way the sea has had a laugh with us - we actually left the bay after re-fuelling at the smallest fuelling station we have been tied up to, and collecting the last of the washing (beautifully done and hung out to dry then carefully folded so no ironing needed) and put up the main sail which has been out of action for months as not needed (no cobwebs or bird's nests seen). The sun was out, the sea just right and we moseyed along. Till night time when we wanted to sleep! Then the mother of all rackets from block banging on the deck, the wind getting up and the sea going back to its old lumpiness. But we are cheerful having just put another reef in the main and coffee made. Dave is not so cheerful as he had the full frontal sea water dowsing when he was in the cockpit. So now it is getting the weather in, sending this to our Kate to post for us and getting ready for breakfast.
 
17deg59minS and 166deg 24E

1021 miles to go!

Tuesday, 16 July 2013

PEACE AT LAST

Jul 14th 2013 Port Vila, Vanuata

‘Hey, Jen!’
‘Yes, Dave?’
‘Jen, you can’t say that was a terrible passage!’
‘But it was!!!’
‘It was very uncomfortable, but nothing went wrong or broke!’
‘It was more than uncomfortable Dave, it was horrrrrrrriiiiiiidddddd!!!!!’
‘I know, it was horrid for me too. Never read so many books in one go’.

‘Do you know we could not get into the cockpit for five whole days except to dice with death to put the engine on for battery charging?’
‘Never again. It was all New Zealand’s fault starting that weather system that squeezed our bit of the wind up. Nasty Kiwis. Except for Ninja Steve of course!’
‘Isn’t it nice to be sort of still again. And getting stiffer by the minute!’.


So the undaunted duo are now safely sitting on the sturdy anchor in the harbour at Port Vila waiting for the quarantine man to let them go ashore. We have managed to find most of the escaped rice from under the cooker, which looked like maggots gone wrong, swept up the worst of the stray odds and ends, ready for inspection. I can vouch that we have no pets (sob, sob) apart from Dave, no meat except in tins and fruit and veg or live plants. We then go ashore for the customs and immigration bit – that will get rid of the rest of the day at this rate.
The last week was not the nicest at all – the seas were high and confused, more like the southern ocean than the pacific, grey with spindrift off the tops. The boat however is immensely strong – which is why we got steel instead of plastic. The slamming we got and the water over the decks would have daunted a lot of lighter ones. The best we could do was keep an eye on the course, and sit tight in our bunks as best we could. The other thing hard to describe is the noise of crashing waves and crashing things. Every so often there would be an extra lurch and a few extra things would fly around the floor. But we only had one breakage and that was in the cupboard! We were safe enough, just rocking and rolling more than we wanted to – no knitting possible at all, and sewing far out of the question!!

Coming in was interesting as the wind got up even more and we pounded in under trysail and engine alone . The harbour here has a large bay to cross before you get to the inner anchorage and thankfully things died down a bit and we were able to find our way to the quarantine area and anchor just before the light failed. The day had been as grey as grey and heavy with cloud, seas grey and high as well. Today it is grey and raining – so much for the tropical paradise the old man promised!

Sunday, 14 July 2013

Upside Down and Back to Front!

13 July 2013

I am trying to write virtually going upside down and back to front - there is a not-spoken-about aspect of long passage making, and we are in it.
 
We work very hard at trying to sort out sailing to occur at the best time weather wise and watch it every day. We are aware of the nasty possibility of the southern convergence zone giving us nasty winds where we are, but still there is no such thing as perfection.
 
Every long passage we do has days of almost impossible to live in conditions, and this is one time. The last 36 hours has seen the seas get up and the wind get up so moving about is incredibly difficult and cooking even more so. There is worse, in that as the sea has got up there has been more water over the decks and after being drowned by water coming through the hatches they are all now closed except the companionway one. So it is hot below and too wet up top to sit. A lot of lying in bunks and book reading. Far too bumpy for knitting even!
 
The wind has also changed direction so at crack of dawn we were falling about up top changing sails. Dave gets harnessed up when he leaves the cockpit, which he had to do when the trysail had to go up. So now we are running with our storm set of staysail and trysail as we are expecting more wind over the next 24 hours.
From Sailing Breezes

We are now 313 miles from Port Vila On Efate in Vanuatu and start our malaria prophylaxis tonight. Thankfully the recommended is Vibramycin which is reasonably tolerable.
 
16deg39minS and 174deg47E
 
As to what the day of the week is and the time - we have endless arguments. We do now UTC (GMT) but the date line change and time zone changes lead to lots of philosophical discussions abut leaving before you arrive etc.
 
 

Wednesday, 3 July 2013

A LITTLE BIT MORE FROM SAMOA

The pilot book says there is little here for repairing yachts, so it was not with much hope we started looking for somewhere to repair a part that had broken. We had found the much appreciated taxi driver Junior, who has been a superb source of information, including where to get the bit for the boat tooled up. He took us off to see the chaps he said could do it and we ended up out in the countryside, cows on the road, chickens running everywhere, until we pulled into a parking lot beside a shed. Inside was just the thing, a lathe for turning stainless steel things. Dave was ecstatic. The original bolt had sheared on the way here, and the self-steering stopped. We managed to get Terry, the no. 2 system, to work, but it is not as robust as Albert, the No.1. Dave crafted a make-do out of some bits on board for Albert and it worked for another couple of days, before the last makeshift one was brought into service and cosseted along. So now we have just the right thing ready to go back in.
We have been also taken to the laundry, the bank, the internet place and the phone place, as well as a couple of supermarkets. This is the most expensive internet on the planet I think, the same as at Tahiti which was astronomical too. So poor old Dave is limited to the amount of cricket and rugby and news watching, and I am not given to much time on my bits either. Sorry to all, but Skype is not a possibility both for the internet cost but mainly because it does not work on the connection.
Now some folk want to know where we are headed next.



The plan is, such as our plans are, to call at Wallis, of Wallis and Futuna fame, on our way to Port Vila in Vanuatu.  We have waited till the windy weather has gone through, and are getting set to leave here on Saturday morning. It should take 2 days to Wallis and Wallis to Port Vila bout 7 or 8. The stay at Wallis will depend how my broken down knee copes with sea time.







For those who are not so up with things, a little history about Jen’s knees. Basically, they have been crumbling to bits for years, a fact that was sort of ignored and hope would not cause significant problems till we had completed the trip. They have not lasted as hoped, and a few days ago one of them has become seriously deranged. I cannot walk much at all, and the day is spent experimenting with various bandages and supports. Nothing can be done here, I just have to get to Australia and see there. No one would insure my knees before we left, even for a king’s ransom. Stopping at Wallis is only really possible if we can afford a few extra days on the trip. Sorry about that, but we will do our best! I I have been a good girl and stayed sitting like a mole in the cabin with it propped up, swallowed the pills and done lots of knitting.



Monday, 1 July 2013

AT LAST



July 2 2013

Well, I do have a bit of explaining to do, that is for sure. I am in deep trouble with some folk for not having updated the blog for so long – many apologies and I will now try to remedy things.
It has been a bit of an up and down time for us both, but we are still moving along and we are now at Apia in Western Samoa, at the marina in the harbour. I am confined to the boat with a problematic knee – even more of a problem than usual, and Dave has gone off for a few errands, so there is a bit of a lull in the day and I will get things started. The last weeks will be fitted in as we go.
One of our great sadnesses has been the death of a very good friend of ours. Peter was dear to both of us, and had been coping with his illness so very bravely. He was with us every step of the way, and each day we would get a note or a message from him wherever we were. He also managed to get things for the boat for us, watch the weather and loads of other little things. He and his wife Suzie have been such a part of our lives for nearly 20 years, ever since we met when I first joined the Institute of Aviation Medicine at Farnborough during my time with the Royal Air Force, and the pair of them has been wonderful to us. And continue to be so, keeping an eye on our Rachel, Andy and young Alexander. I have missed Peter’s cheery notes every day and logging on has been not quite the same since. But Peter is the last one to want a prolonged period of mourning, and I can hear him say ‘Get on with it girl!’ as I write. So back to writing it is.
Well, we have been to Tahiti and Bora Bora since we last wrote, and we will have to have a bit of a catch up. But now we are at Samoa, the Western one, not American Samoa. I have not met a more friendly or happy bunch anywhere.
In our usual style we managed to get here after an uncomfortable few days at the end of the 10 day passage - thunderstorms, heavy rain and the worst night of lumpy bumpy seas. The day dawned foggy and overcast which made the approach that much more concentrated to make sure we got through the right part of the reef that surrounds the entrance. We could not find the 2 towers on the church which were down as the leading marks, at all. But at last we were in. We had called the Port Authority as requested and before we knew it there was a little launch approaching to shepherd us into our berth. Wonderful, as this takes all the anxiety of wondering where they want to park us. We are right up near the shore, close to the security hut, as snug as can be.




 Looking around we realize we were lucky to get a place as there is terrible damage to more than half the marina from the cyclone last December. That is also the reason for the absence of the towers on the cathedral as the whole cathedral had to be pulled down after the cyclone (it is being rebuilt as it was – a marvelous traditional building and is going to be wonderful).




Friday, 19 April 2013

Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia

18 April 2013

Many apologies for the gap in the blog, but I have not been the best, suffering greatly from the prolonged heat that my body does not appear to like. And it has frazzled my brain as well I think.
 
Clipart from DJ Art.

We had just over a week at Hiva Oa, but were only able to go ashore for about 8 hours in all that time as the sea was too rough for our dinghy to land. I will fill you in as we go. We had the usual boat jobs to do, and with help from our next door neighbour Dave was able to get the fuel and water we needed. As appears usual, we have developed another problem, this time with the stern gland seal which will need fixing. So as I need fixing too, we are off to Tahiti where the boat will go to the boatyard and I will go to some air conditioning and the hospital.
 
We left Hiva Oa on Sunday, so today is our fourth day at sea and this morning we are where we planned to be which is passing the atoll of Manihi.
 
We expect to be at Papeete around late afternoon Saturday as we have no wind and are motoring.

Present position 14 deg 28min S and 145 deg 4min W
 

View Larger Map 

Thursday, 4 April 2013

HIVA OA: We are HERE!

4 April 2013

After 22 days at sea and 3000 miles from Galapagos we have arrived yesterday afternoon. We saw 2 ships in this time, and a yacht once we were 4 hours from Hiva Oa.

This is a lovely place at first glance, very tiny anchorage with almost no room for us, with steep sides all round and lush vegetation and what look to be really big and pleasing houses amongst the trees. The landing area at the side of the anchorage is well built and well maintained. More when we go exploring later today.

'Dave?'
'Yes Jen.'
'What about our scrabble game?'
'What do you mean?'
'Well, we are going to be there soon.'
'Jen, have to have the scrabble!!'
So the doddery duo sit out in the cockpit while the autopilot steers them ever toward their destination.
The tension mounts - who is going to get the big letters today and the triple word score? Much deliberation goes on and thankfully the wind dies a bit so that the game can continue.
'Hey Dave?'
'Yes Jen?'
'We are getting a bit close.'
'Got to finish.'
So the game goes on until 4 miles to go. Very satisfactory.
 
[Ed.: Who won??!] 


View Larger Map

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

NEARLY THERE

2 April 2013

The doddery duo are feet up in the cockpit (you need feet up to stop fall off your seat) pondering the great nothingness of the unceasing rise and fall of the waves of the Pacific Ocean and life in general.
 
'Hey Jen?'
'Yes, Dave?'
'We had better get some things done soon you know.'
''Cos we are getting to Hiva Oa soon?'
'Yup.'
' Well, we could do some gardening.'
'You mean get rid of the things growing on the back of the boat at the water line?'
'Well, I know they are pretty, all that lovely green frondy stuff and those cockle things poking out of their shells. I am sure I have seen those cockle things for sale to eat, you know. And then there is the rockery around them.'
'It does look a bit naff, I guess. Maybe we could lean over and scrape them off and then we would look a bit more professional.'
'We could, Dave. Let's think about it, it is a bit hot at present.'
 
So maybe the garden will be sorted - maybe not!

The duo need to find a shop that sells mugs of the drinking variety as Dave has had a smashing time of it lately. Problem is he reckons his tea only tastes good in a fine china mug - and these all fall over and run around the galley as they are too top heavy to stay on the non-slip mats. So he has had to resort to Jen's coffee mugs of a more substantial and balanced design. So the hunt will be on for the perfect tea drinking device.
 
'Hey Dave?'
'Yes, Jen?'
'Concern has been expressed we might miss these teeny tiny bits of land in the middle of the largest ocean in the world.'
'Oh dear, they must not know we have a map.'
'I know Dave, and if they could see the beautiful colouring in I did they would not be worried.'
'But they will be perplexed as to what you have coloured in.'
'The charts, silly. The ones that we have are all greyscale and it was hard to tell the land from the sea among all the squiggles. So now they are all marked up in the traditional way. Mind you these islands are a bit on the weeny side, but the trusty GPS seems to be getting us there.'
'Well, Jen, we should know by tomorrow afternoon.' 

170 miles to go....
 
Hiva Oa, a speck in the Pacific Ocean....
 

Monday, 1 April 2013

HAPPY EASTER

1 April 2013 

To us Catholics Easter is the biggest celebration of the year. And so it was with some disappointment that we realized that we would be at sea for this time, despite our best planning. We have all the appropriate books to follow the services and some music to set the scene, but the there was Easter Sunday - the Big Dinner. 
 
Not to be daunted we bought the only pieces of chicken we could find in Galapagos, and some potatoes. The chicken was lovingly boxed and with some careful stowage put next to the evaporator in the top of the fridge in hope that it would stay frozen. This meant daily cosseting, as, with the bumpy passage we are having and the need to get things out of the fridge, it kept trying to escape from its perch. The potatoes were eked out, keeping the right number to have at Easter. 
 
So Easter Sunday came, the great celebration of the Resurrection, and we took out our treasures and Dave cooked a wonderful roast chicken (2 legs ) and perfect crispy roast potatoes (despite finding one of his treasures was no good - we still had plenty)and baby carrots and peas courtesy of Morrison's supermarket. Peaches to follow. Burp!!
 
We are getting closer and will soon have to pull out the approach charts - about 300 miles as I write this, or 2 days, sort of depending if we can keep our average up. I am looking forward to not falling over at every move - the last couple of days have been especially rolly.

The Resurrection

Thursday, 28 March 2013

PROGRESS

28 March 2013

Well, here we are, another week gone by and we managed to spot our Ship of the Week yesterday. Not sure what he was as he did not come up on the identification system. Dave reckons best bet could be one of those big Japanese fishing boats.

No more flying fish inside, but a daily couple on the deck all stiff and crispy in the morning. Not appetizing at all. Other than the occasional sea bird there is not a lot to see at all.

Less than 1000 miles to go!! 867 as I write!!!

8 deg 46 min S and 124 deg 27 west.

There is a prize for the person who can give me key strokes for the degree sign and quarters and halves etc!!

Tuesday, 26 March 2013

TRUE STORY

26 March 2013

Last night, about 3 AM on a bumpy rolly night, Dave and Jen were doing the OAP (old age pensioner) dance to the loo. The only light came from the chart table, so the smallest room in the house was very dimly lit indeed, but enough for the occasion. Jen returns from the loo and goes to check the instruments and Dave proceeds on his way.

'AAAAAARRRRRGGHHHHHHH!!!!!' comes from the bathroom.
'DAVE! You OK, what has happened???!!!' 
'FISH!!'
'What fish? You having a hallucination?' Jen is now getting just a little bit concerned. Not too much, but a little as this is a bit out of the ordinary.
'The fish in the sink!'
'What fish in the sink? There was nothing there when I was there.'
'There is now. The fish flew in the hatch and bounced off me into the sink!!!!'
'That is amazing. What is it doing?'
'Flipping and flopping about.'
'Best we throw it out again?'
'That's what I am trying to do. Not so easy to catch.'
Soon fish is thrown back to the deep, and Dave gets rid of fishy scales and peace is returned to the little craft.
 
How it happened it really one of those flukes as the hatch, on the left side of the boat was not open very much at all as we were expecting rain, so to make it over the side of the boat high enough to meet the open hatch and then time your fall to meet Dave coming in - well, what can you say????
 
Flying Fish?!
 

Tuesday, 19 March 2013

One week down.

19 March 2013

One week down, 984 miles done, about 2100 to go. The worst day ever yet on this leg yesterday. Heavy rain, sudden squalls of over 40 kts of wind with sail changes in the pouring rain. However, no need for a shower!! And bumpy, bumpy. Today however, I can see blue sky this morning, so hope is up for a better day.

Monday, 18 March 2013

Sailing again......

18 March 2013

We have now sailed constantly for over 24 hours - and the wind is still holding. Maybe, fingers crossed!! But the rain has returned again, which is a bit of a downer. Averaging about 6 kts.

7 deg 55 S and 101 deg 04 W

BUMPY!

17 March 2013

Well, after a pretty awkward start it would appear that after much examination of weather gribs and doing what we could, we are finally getting to the trade wind belt. We have just had the longest, and I regret to say, bumpiest, sail of this leg. May it last! Somehow we ended up in the very place we did not want to be, but we had been constrained by having to make use of what wind there was at first, whatever the direction it came from, in order to conserve our diesel resources. The area we have had to put up with is renowned for flukey winds, as well as sudden, strong rain squalls. We can verify that this is all true, having been becalmed, then blown to bits, then drowned in copious rain showers. The resemblance to sailing round Scotland is remarkable - except the weather is warmer.
 
So now we look forward to what we hope will be sailing days at last. 
It was too bumpy to knit - how sad is that! But we did manage to have the bread baking. Joint effort to weigh the flour though, no way the box was going to stay on the scales without Dave's strong hold on it. As well as his careful transfer of the bowl of flour, yeast etc. from the weighing station to the work bench.

7 deg 34 S and 98 deg 24 W

Saturday, 16 March 2013

Doldrums

14 March 2013

We are in the doldrums good and proper. The motor is going on and on as we make our way south west towards the trade winds. We manage a little sailing in the evenings for a couple of hours and then the wind drops away to nothing. And last night it rained - talk about hot and sticky! The days require much book reading and knitting. Have started on some lace as this is nice and light. I apologise to the recipients of my knitting as it will have a combination of smells, including the odd whiff of diesel (just hold this dripping pipe,Jen) and baby powder (keeps hands dry).

Now 03deg 25min S and 94deg 02mins W

Tuesday, 12 March 2013

YIPPEEEE!!!

8 Mar 2013  We watched our cargo boat being unloaded all day Wednesday and then all day yesterday until about 4 pm - still no word about batteries. Carla had been out twice to to the freighter with no joy. So Dave went off to find her again and see what could be done. Phone calls were no good, so it was the 2 of them into a water taxi and out again. It took some doing - a harangue from Carla, and another from the boatman and a disappearing $20 from Dave's pocket, but just as the sun was going down the taxi turned up with 6 lovely new batteries. They have been unpacked, fondly adored, and are now ready to be installed. 
 
Diesel has been promised for this morning.

Water should be arriving soon - more jerrycans needed despite the 9 buckets of rain water I have put in over the last 2 days. An indirect comment on the weather, hot steamy and rainy!

I might even get ashore for the internet as I have been confined to the boat in case the batteries arrived while Dave was off on a mission or two ashore.
 
[Editor's note: Jen and Dave did get ashore, and were able to Skype with the Editor, albeit briefly!]