Wednesday, 3 July 2013

A LITTLE BIT MORE FROM SAMOA

The pilot book says there is little here for repairing yachts, so it was not with much hope we started looking for somewhere to repair a part that had broken. We had found the much appreciated taxi driver Junior, who has been a superb source of information, including where to get the bit for the boat tooled up. He took us off to see the chaps he said could do it and we ended up out in the countryside, cows on the road, chickens running everywhere, until we pulled into a parking lot beside a shed. Inside was just the thing, a lathe for turning stainless steel things. Dave was ecstatic. The original bolt had sheared on the way here, and the self-steering stopped. We managed to get Terry, the no. 2 system, to work, but it is not as robust as Albert, the No.1. Dave crafted a make-do out of some bits on board for Albert and it worked for another couple of days, before the last makeshift one was brought into service and cosseted along. So now we have just the right thing ready to go back in.
We have been also taken to the laundry, the bank, the internet place and the phone place, as well as a couple of supermarkets. This is the most expensive internet on the planet I think, the same as at Tahiti which was astronomical too. So poor old Dave is limited to the amount of cricket and rugby and news watching, and I am not given to much time on my bits either. Sorry to all, but Skype is not a possibility both for the internet cost but mainly because it does not work on the connection.
Now some folk want to know where we are headed next.



The plan is, such as our plans are, to call at Wallis, of Wallis and Futuna fame, on our way to Port Vila in Vanuatu.  We have waited till the windy weather has gone through, and are getting set to leave here on Saturday morning. It should take 2 days to Wallis and Wallis to Port Vila bout 7 or 8. The stay at Wallis will depend how my broken down knee copes with sea time.







For those who are not so up with things, a little history about Jen’s knees. Basically, they have been crumbling to bits for years, a fact that was sort of ignored and hope would not cause significant problems till we had completed the trip. They have not lasted as hoped, and a few days ago one of them has become seriously deranged. I cannot walk much at all, and the day is spent experimenting with various bandages and supports. Nothing can be done here, I just have to get to Australia and see there. No one would insure my knees before we left, even for a king’s ransom. Stopping at Wallis is only really possible if we can afford a few extra days on the trip. Sorry about that, but we will do our best! I I have been a good girl and stayed sitting like a mole in the cabin with it propped up, swallowed the pills and done lots of knitting.



Monday, 1 July 2013

AT LAST



July 2 2013

Well, I do have a bit of explaining to do, that is for sure. I am in deep trouble with some folk for not having updated the blog for so long – many apologies and I will now try to remedy things.
It has been a bit of an up and down time for us both, but we are still moving along and we are now at Apia in Western Samoa, at the marina in the harbour. I am confined to the boat with a problematic knee – even more of a problem than usual, and Dave has gone off for a few errands, so there is a bit of a lull in the day and I will get things started. The last weeks will be fitted in as we go.
One of our great sadnesses has been the death of a very good friend of ours. Peter was dear to both of us, and had been coping with his illness so very bravely. He was with us every step of the way, and each day we would get a note or a message from him wherever we were. He also managed to get things for the boat for us, watch the weather and loads of other little things. He and his wife Suzie have been such a part of our lives for nearly 20 years, ever since we met when I first joined the Institute of Aviation Medicine at Farnborough during my time with the Royal Air Force, and the pair of them has been wonderful to us. And continue to be so, keeping an eye on our Rachel, Andy and young Alexander. I have missed Peter’s cheery notes every day and logging on has been not quite the same since. But Peter is the last one to want a prolonged period of mourning, and I can hear him say ‘Get on with it girl!’ as I write. So back to writing it is.
Well, we have been to Tahiti and Bora Bora since we last wrote, and we will have to have a bit of a catch up. But now we are at Samoa, the Western one, not American Samoa. I have not met a more friendly or happy bunch anywhere.
In our usual style we managed to get here after an uncomfortable few days at the end of the 10 day passage - thunderstorms, heavy rain and the worst night of lumpy bumpy seas. The day dawned foggy and overcast which made the approach that much more concentrated to make sure we got through the right part of the reef that surrounds the entrance. We could not find the 2 towers on the church which were down as the leading marks, at all. But at last we were in. We had called the Port Authority as requested and before we knew it there was a little launch approaching to shepherd us into our berth. Wonderful, as this takes all the anxiety of wondering where they want to park us. We are right up near the shore, close to the security hut, as snug as can be.




 Looking around we realize we were lucky to get a place as there is terrible damage to more than half the marina from the cyclone last December. That is also the reason for the absence of the towers on the cathedral as the whole cathedral had to be pulled down after the cyclone (it is being rebuilt as it was – a marvelous traditional building and is going to be wonderful).




Friday, 19 April 2013

Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia

18 April 2013

Many apologies for the gap in the blog, but I have not been the best, suffering greatly from the prolonged heat that my body does not appear to like. And it has frazzled my brain as well I think.
 
Clipart from DJ Art.

We had just over a week at Hiva Oa, but were only able to go ashore for about 8 hours in all that time as the sea was too rough for our dinghy to land. I will fill you in as we go. We had the usual boat jobs to do, and with help from our next door neighbour Dave was able to get the fuel and water we needed. As appears usual, we have developed another problem, this time with the stern gland seal which will need fixing. So as I need fixing too, we are off to Tahiti where the boat will go to the boatyard and I will go to some air conditioning and the hospital.
 
We left Hiva Oa on Sunday, so today is our fourth day at sea and this morning we are where we planned to be which is passing the atoll of Manihi.
 
We expect to be at Papeete around late afternoon Saturday as we have no wind and are motoring.

Present position 14 deg 28min S and 145 deg 4min W
 

View Larger Map 

Thursday, 4 April 2013

HIVA OA: We are HERE!

4 April 2013

After 22 days at sea and 3000 miles from Galapagos we have arrived yesterday afternoon. We saw 2 ships in this time, and a yacht once we were 4 hours from Hiva Oa.

This is a lovely place at first glance, very tiny anchorage with almost no room for us, with steep sides all round and lush vegetation and what look to be really big and pleasing houses amongst the trees. The landing area at the side of the anchorage is well built and well maintained. More when we go exploring later today.

'Dave?'
'Yes Jen.'
'What about our scrabble game?'
'What do you mean?'
'Well, we are going to be there soon.'
'Jen, have to have the scrabble!!'
So the doddery duo sit out in the cockpit while the autopilot steers them ever toward their destination.
The tension mounts - who is going to get the big letters today and the triple word score? Much deliberation goes on and thankfully the wind dies a bit so that the game can continue.
'Hey Dave?'
'Yes Jen?'
'We are getting a bit close.'
'Got to finish.'
So the game goes on until 4 miles to go. Very satisfactory.
 
[Ed.: Who won??!] 


View Larger Map

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

NEARLY THERE

2 April 2013

The doddery duo are feet up in the cockpit (you need feet up to stop fall off your seat) pondering the great nothingness of the unceasing rise and fall of the waves of the Pacific Ocean and life in general.
 
'Hey Jen?'
'Yes, Dave?'
'We had better get some things done soon you know.'
''Cos we are getting to Hiva Oa soon?'
'Yup.'
' Well, we could do some gardening.'
'You mean get rid of the things growing on the back of the boat at the water line?'
'Well, I know they are pretty, all that lovely green frondy stuff and those cockle things poking out of their shells. I am sure I have seen those cockle things for sale to eat, you know. And then there is the rockery around them.'
'It does look a bit naff, I guess. Maybe we could lean over and scrape them off and then we would look a bit more professional.'
'We could, Dave. Let's think about it, it is a bit hot at present.'
 
So maybe the garden will be sorted - maybe not!

The duo need to find a shop that sells mugs of the drinking variety as Dave has had a smashing time of it lately. Problem is he reckons his tea only tastes good in a fine china mug - and these all fall over and run around the galley as they are too top heavy to stay on the non-slip mats. So he has had to resort to Jen's coffee mugs of a more substantial and balanced design. So the hunt will be on for the perfect tea drinking device.
 
'Hey Dave?'
'Yes, Jen?'
'Concern has been expressed we might miss these teeny tiny bits of land in the middle of the largest ocean in the world.'
'Oh dear, they must not know we have a map.'
'I know Dave, and if they could see the beautiful colouring in I did they would not be worried.'
'But they will be perplexed as to what you have coloured in.'
'The charts, silly. The ones that we have are all greyscale and it was hard to tell the land from the sea among all the squiggles. So now they are all marked up in the traditional way. Mind you these islands are a bit on the weeny side, but the trusty GPS seems to be getting us there.'
'Well, Jen, we should know by tomorrow afternoon.' 

170 miles to go....
 
Hiva Oa, a speck in the Pacific Ocean....
 

Monday, 1 April 2013

HAPPY EASTER

1 April 2013 

To us Catholics Easter is the biggest celebration of the year. And so it was with some disappointment that we realized that we would be at sea for this time, despite our best planning. We have all the appropriate books to follow the services and some music to set the scene, but the there was Easter Sunday - the Big Dinner. 
 
Not to be daunted we bought the only pieces of chicken we could find in Galapagos, and some potatoes. The chicken was lovingly boxed and with some careful stowage put next to the evaporator in the top of the fridge in hope that it would stay frozen. This meant daily cosseting, as, with the bumpy passage we are having and the need to get things out of the fridge, it kept trying to escape from its perch. The potatoes were eked out, keeping the right number to have at Easter. 
 
So Easter Sunday came, the great celebration of the Resurrection, and we took out our treasures and Dave cooked a wonderful roast chicken (2 legs ) and perfect crispy roast potatoes (despite finding one of his treasures was no good - we still had plenty)and baby carrots and peas courtesy of Morrison's supermarket. Peaches to follow. Burp!!
 
We are getting closer and will soon have to pull out the approach charts - about 300 miles as I write this, or 2 days, sort of depending if we can keep our average up. I am looking forward to not falling over at every move - the last couple of days have been especially rolly.

The Resurrection

Thursday, 28 March 2013

PROGRESS

28 March 2013

Well, here we are, another week gone by and we managed to spot our Ship of the Week yesterday. Not sure what he was as he did not come up on the identification system. Dave reckons best bet could be one of those big Japanese fishing boats.

No more flying fish inside, but a daily couple on the deck all stiff and crispy in the morning. Not appetizing at all. Other than the occasional sea bird there is not a lot to see at all.

Less than 1000 miles to go!! 867 as I write!!!

8 deg 46 min S and 124 deg 27 west.

There is a prize for the person who can give me key strokes for the degree sign and quarters and halves etc!!