Wednesday 31 July 2013

IN THE CORAL SEA

30 July 2013

Well, today we were able to come out of the depths of the boat into the sunshine for the first time in 2 and 1/2 days. It has been a bit trying to say the least. We have had it all again - the lumpy sea, rain wind and water over the deck. Even with fully reefed main and no fore sails we were doing over 6-7 kts. Unable to even knit - and that is tragic!
 
Poor Dave has done a sterling job of getting some food cooked, as long as I was able to hold on to things during the preparation and serving. Meals could only be things that did not take lots of hot water (in case it spilled) or complicated cooking (fewer saucepans the better). Pasta is wonderful stuff! 
 
But today we have gone to the other extreme and have no wind and have been motoring. The sea is still a bit lumpy but not nearly as bad and we were able to sit outside at last. The fresh air is so good. And scrabble is a lot better outside too! And we have been able to make cups of tea and coffee as well. We have crossed over the top of New Caledonia and are making our way very slowly towards Brisbane. We were expecting to arrive Monday next week, but the forecast has little wind so we may be a little slower. All is well and humming along much better now.

View Larger Map 
 
Best news of all is that it is getting cooler - I am so very happy that we stay under 30degrees, but Dave is mumbling something about needing a fleece soon. I think he jests!!

21deg29minS and 160deg08minE

Saturday 27 July 2013

The Last Leg

26th July 2013

Well, here we are, back on the watery sea, bowling along on the way to Brisbane. The day before we left we had a real scurry around the far reaches of the town getting all the clearances done and the final stamps in the passports. We had to have a taxi ride this time as we would not have been able to dinghy it across the bay without looking like drowned rabbits, but the good side of the taxi ride was the big supermarket we went past. We had Dominic the driver leave us there on the way back and collect us after we had found our first real meat and cheese for lunch and meat for dinner, and veges in ages. Somehow tinned corned beef, tinned veges, tinned everything loses its appeal after a couple of years.
 
In its inimitable way the sea has had a laugh with us - we actually left the bay after re-fuelling at the smallest fuelling station we have been tied up to, and collecting the last of the washing (beautifully done and hung out to dry then carefully folded so no ironing needed) and put up the main sail which has been out of action for months as not needed (no cobwebs or bird's nests seen). The sun was out, the sea just right and we moseyed along. Till night time when we wanted to sleep! Then the mother of all rackets from block banging on the deck, the wind getting up and the sea going back to its old lumpiness. But we are cheerful having just put another reef in the main and coffee made. Dave is not so cheerful as he had the full frontal sea water dowsing when he was in the cockpit. So now it is getting the weather in, sending this to our Kate to post for us and getting ready for breakfast.
 
17deg59minS and 166deg 24E

1021 miles to go!

Tuesday 16 July 2013

PEACE AT LAST

Jul 14th 2013 Port Vila, Vanuata

‘Hey, Jen!’
‘Yes, Dave?’
‘Jen, you can’t say that was a terrible passage!’
‘But it was!!!’
‘It was very uncomfortable, but nothing went wrong or broke!’
‘It was more than uncomfortable Dave, it was horrrrrrrriiiiiiidddddd!!!!!’
‘I know, it was horrid for me too. Never read so many books in one go’.

‘Do you know we could not get into the cockpit for five whole days except to dice with death to put the engine on for battery charging?’
‘Never again. It was all New Zealand’s fault starting that weather system that squeezed our bit of the wind up. Nasty Kiwis. Except for Ninja Steve of course!’
‘Isn’t it nice to be sort of still again. And getting stiffer by the minute!’.


So the undaunted duo are now safely sitting on the sturdy anchor in the harbour at Port Vila waiting for the quarantine man to let them go ashore. We have managed to find most of the escaped rice from under the cooker, which looked like maggots gone wrong, swept up the worst of the stray odds and ends, ready for inspection. I can vouch that we have no pets (sob, sob) apart from Dave, no meat except in tins and fruit and veg or live plants. We then go ashore for the customs and immigration bit – that will get rid of the rest of the day at this rate.
The last week was not the nicest at all – the seas were high and confused, more like the southern ocean than the pacific, grey with spindrift off the tops. The boat however is immensely strong – which is why we got steel instead of plastic. The slamming we got and the water over the decks would have daunted a lot of lighter ones. The best we could do was keep an eye on the course, and sit tight in our bunks as best we could. The other thing hard to describe is the noise of crashing waves and crashing things. Every so often there would be an extra lurch and a few extra things would fly around the floor. But we only had one breakage and that was in the cupboard! We were safe enough, just rocking and rolling more than we wanted to – no knitting possible at all, and sewing far out of the question!!

Coming in was interesting as the wind got up even more and we pounded in under trysail and engine alone . The harbour here has a large bay to cross before you get to the inner anchorage and thankfully things died down a bit and we were able to find our way to the quarantine area and anchor just before the light failed. The day had been as grey as grey and heavy with cloud, seas grey and high as well. Today it is grey and raining – so much for the tropical paradise the old man promised!

Sunday 14 July 2013

Upside Down and Back to Front!

13 July 2013

I am trying to write virtually going upside down and back to front - there is a not-spoken-about aspect of long passage making, and we are in it.
 
We work very hard at trying to sort out sailing to occur at the best time weather wise and watch it every day. We are aware of the nasty possibility of the southern convergence zone giving us nasty winds where we are, but still there is no such thing as perfection.
 
Every long passage we do has days of almost impossible to live in conditions, and this is one time. The last 36 hours has seen the seas get up and the wind get up so moving about is incredibly difficult and cooking even more so. There is worse, in that as the sea has got up there has been more water over the decks and after being drowned by water coming through the hatches they are all now closed except the companionway one. So it is hot below and too wet up top to sit. A lot of lying in bunks and book reading. Far too bumpy for knitting even!
 
The wind has also changed direction so at crack of dawn we were falling about up top changing sails. Dave gets harnessed up when he leaves the cockpit, which he had to do when the trysail had to go up. So now we are running with our storm set of staysail and trysail as we are expecting more wind over the next 24 hours.
From Sailing Breezes

We are now 313 miles from Port Vila On Efate in Vanuatu and start our malaria prophylaxis tonight. Thankfully the recommended is Vibramycin which is reasonably tolerable.
 
16deg39minS and 174deg47E
 
As to what the day of the week is and the time - we have endless arguments. We do now UTC (GMT) but the date line change and time zone changes lead to lots of philosophical discussions abut leaving before you arrive etc.
 
 

Wednesday 3 July 2013

A LITTLE BIT MORE FROM SAMOA

The pilot book says there is little here for repairing yachts, so it was not with much hope we started looking for somewhere to repair a part that had broken. We had found the much appreciated taxi driver Junior, who has been a superb source of information, including where to get the bit for the boat tooled up. He took us off to see the chaps he said could do it and we ended up out in the countryside, cows on the road, chickens running everywhere, until we pulled into a parking lot beside a shed. Inside was just the thing, a lathe for turning stainless steel things. Dave was ecstatic. The original bolt had sheared on the way here, and the self-steering stopped. We managed to get Terry, the no. 2 system, to work, but it is not as robust as Albert, the No.1. Dave crafted a make-do out of some bits on board for Albert and it worked for another couple of days, before the last makeshift one was brought into service and cosseted along. So now we have just the right thing ready to go back in.
We have been also taken to the laundry, the bank, the internet place and the phone place, as well as a couple of supermarkets. This is the most expensive internet on the planet I think, the same as at Tahiti which was astronomical too. So poor old Dave is limited to the amount of cricket and rugby and news watching, and I am not given to much time on my bits either. Sorry to all, but Skype is not a possibility both for the internet cost but mainly because it does not work on the connection.
Now some folk want to know where we are headed next.



The plan is, such as our plans are, to call at Wallis, of Wallis and Futuna fame, on our way to Port Vila in Vanuatu.  We have waited till the windy weather has gone through, and are getting set to leave here on Saturday morning. It should take 2 days to Wallis and Wallis to Port Vila bout 7 or 8. The stay at Wallis will depend how my broken down knee copes with sea time.







For those who are not so up with things, a little history about Jen’s knees. Basically, they have been crumbling to bits for years, a fact that was sort of ignored and hope would not cause significant problems till we had completed the trip. They have not lasted as hoped, and a few days ago one of them has become seriously deranged. I cannot walk much at all, and the day is spent experimenting with various bandages and supports. Nothing can be done here, I just have to get to Australia and see there. No one would insure my knees before we left, even for a king’s ransom. Stopping at Wallis is only really possible if we can afford a few extra days on the trip. Sorry about that, but we will do our best! I I have been a good girl and stayed sitting like a mole in the cabin with it propped up, swallowed the pills and done lots of knitting.



Monday 1 July 2013

AT LAST



July 2 2013

Well, I do have a bit of explaining to do, that is for sure. I am in deep trouble with some folk for not having updated the blog for so long – many apologies and I will now try to remedy things.
It has been a bit of an up and down time for us both, but we are still moving along and we are now at Apia in Western Samoa, at the marina in the harbour. I am confined to the boat with a problematic knee – even more of a problem than usual, and Dave has gone off for a few errands, so there is a bit of a lull in the day and I will get things started. The last weeks will be fitted in as we go.
One of our great sadnesses has been the death of a very good friend of ours. Peter was dear to both of us, and had been coping with his illness so very bravely. He was with us every step of the way, and each day we would get a note or a message from him wherever we were. He also managed to get things for the boat for us, watch the weather and loads of other little things. He and his wife Suzie have been such a part of our lives for nearly 20 years, ever since we met when I first joined the Institute of Aviation Medicine at Farnborough during my time with the Royal Air Force, and the pair of them has been wonderful to us. And continue to be so, keeping an eye on our Rachel, Andy and young Alexander. I have missed Peter’s cheery notes every day and logging on has been not quite the same since. But Peter is the last one to want a prolonged period of mourning, and I can hear him say ‘Get on with it girl!’ as I write. So back to writing it is.
Well, we have been to Tahiti and Bora Bora since we last wrote, and we will have to have a bit of a catch up. But now we are at Samoa, the Western one, not American Samoa. I have not met a more friendly or happy bunch anywhere.
In our usual style we managed to get here after an uncomfortable few days at the end of the 10 day passage - thunderstorms, heavy rain and the worst night of lumpy bumpy seas. The day dawned foggy and overcast which made the approach that much more concentrated to make sure we got through the right part of the reef that surrounds the entrance. We could not find the 2 towers on the church which were down as the leading marks, at all. But at last we were in. We had called the Port Authority as requested and before we knew it there was a little launch approaching to shepherd us into our berth. Wonderful, as this takes all the anxiety of wondering where they want to park us. We are right up near the shore, close to the security hut, as snug as can be.




 Looking around we realize we were lucky to get a place as there is terrible damage to more than half the marina from the cyclone last December. That is also the reason for the absence of the towers on the cathedral as the whole cathedral had to be pulled down after the cyclone (it is being rebuilt as it was – a marvelous traditional building and is going to be wonderful).