MUROS

JUNE 3
At last we are able to get a bit of news out and catch up on the blog. It would seem that our naive hopes that internet connection would be easy in Europe have been proved false as our first foray in Spain has let us know that Vodaphone isnot the same in Spain as in the UK and wi-fi is not universal. However, more of that later.
We finished the last blog in the Scillies and what a lovely stay that was. The day came for leaving and saw a flurry of activity from us on a bright and sunny day. We had fuelled and watered the day before, but although not due to leave till 3 pm due to the tides, the time passed in an eye blink. The dinghy was hoisted on deck, a bit slow as it was the first time we had done this manoeuvre, but finally tied down on the new cleats I had insisted on instead of the fiddly little loops before, and the deck secured and ready. The wind looked as though it was going to be behind us so we dragged the second foresail on deck and hoisted it up with the other ready for twin headsail sailing. This writes a lot easier than it is to actually do, as the sail on the stay has to be dropped and then both sails hoisted up together – slow winching by old crocks, but we made in the end. Then the poles out each side get rigged and snugged down ready to receive the sails when we get going. So a bit later than planned we slipped the buoy and motored out. We had readied the heavy weather sails on deck in Swansea, and flaked the rodes for the sea anchor and drogue in the cockpit locker ready for instant deployment – after all we were going out into the big wide world.
As we motored out down towards Bell Rock lighthouse in the afternoon sun it was stunning, but no wind, and a very depressed Dave muttered about losing “the window” and other such nautical terms. Approaching Bell Rock, huge in its magnificence and isolation, perched on what seems a non-existent rock, we altered course and low and behold a breeze came up and then we were sailing. Fabulous. A short while later we looked behind us and saw a vast fog bank looming up behind us and coming ever closer and then enveloping us, not the best thing. More unsettling was the mournful hooting of a fog horn from a large ship somewhere in front of us. Hmmmmm. So off goes Dave to try to get his new computer programme working, the one we had problems with in Swansea, and thanks to St Joseph and St James it came up and did the business. It allows us to pick up ships transmitting over their radar and plot their track. They can’t see us as we have no transmitter, but it gives invaluable information of what is around us. So we knew which way Fog Horn was going and how close and then in the murk he was where he should have been, almost too good to be true. This is AIS and it stood us in good stead all the way down, apart from the smaller fishing vessels and yachts which do not seem to be transmitting.
So we sailed on into the night and stared the watches, 3hrs on and 3hrs off at night and 4 on and 4 off in the day. This means we rotate the times and allows joint meals. The fog eventually lifted to a starry night and then the beauty of the sunrise and moon set. We had company from dolphins again and again, all huffing and squeaking alongside as they do. So much for gales and Biscay, eventually we had no wind and all we could do was either slop around in the swell or motor. Slopping in the swell was not an option as we were in the shipping lanes below Scilly so motor it was. And was and was. Until......
That awful time when there is absence of noise – the engine stopped. We could have cried as we have put so much effort into cleaning this fuel system and here we were having to go through all the hard work again. So totally unbelievable. At least this time we were out at sea. So the old routine of empty tank etc and find more slime from dead bugs killed since the last effort. And on again towards Spain, still motoring despite trying to sail whenever possible as fuel usage had to be rationed if at all possible. The sun was really hot and much to Dave’s disgust the umbrella came out – I think he is a bit embarrassed by sailing with a garden umbrella, but until we get a Bimini built, shade is a must. And I did notice him sitting in the shady bits when it was his turn on watch. Terry the tiller worked hard and after a bit of thought, us being slow learners, we finally got the book out and after a read realised he wasn’t a plug and play item as Dave had thought (hoped more likely– hates handbooks), so followed the instructions and lo and behold he gave a little sigh of thanks and managed to keep on course at last. Then.....
Having just dodged the shipping lanes leading to Finisterre we had a repeat of the engine trouble again. This was just the last straw in a way as it seriously disrupted the watch system and we were getting tired. But the fuel had to be cleaned and decanted yet again as we would not have enough to get to Muros, so lots of smelly diesel later and aching arms from shifting tables and jerry cans in the rocking boat were on our way again.
The entry into Muros is lovely, and we rounded the corner into the bay and with a huge sigh of relief dropped our super branny new (well, used once) anchor . Apart from putting on the sail cover no more jobs were done as we were so tired we just went to sleep, even though the sun was still out.
Muros is delightful and not yet touched by tourism, or some other modern inventions like wi-fi or easy internet access. There is no mobile broadband roaming in Spain, and we can’t take out a contract so that is out. We did get a SIM card for the spare phone after much digging into the dictionary, but the cheap international is on a contract phone here, not the pay as you go as in the UK, so calls are limited. But we found the little supermarket and are on a search for the bigger one, have found the nicest coffee place, found the church and hardware store where we go in with pockets full of bits to show the man behind the counter as the words don’t appear to be in the dictionary. People are so kind and friendly and put up with my painful attempts to speak their language, and show no impatience whatsoever.
It is HOT. At the earliest opportunity the sewing machine was out and a huge green tent made to go over the boom and another cover for the front hatch as well. This added to the cover already on the back of the boat has made it liveable, and we also have a windscoop going down the front hatch that will direct any little breeze into the cabin. Dave still has a duvet, but at least has moved down to the summer weight and into summer PJs, I have a sheet and sleeveless PJs – always said he was a frog! But the biggest prince to me.
We have spent 2 of our days here doing the diesel tank clean yet again and there can be no further bug or sludge possible in either tank. We have filtered everything twice again, wiped both tanks out with Jeye’s fluid (not easy in the back of the boat), replaced filters, cleaned fuel lines and just about every bit of fuel system you can think of. There has been so much diesel transport that the gas alarm started to go off in answer to the fumes – and what an alarm that is I can tell you. You cannot switch it off and I am sure they heard it in Madrid.
After this I was able to sit down at last and have time with my precious radios and see what my bug bears there were. It is surprising where the time goes at sea, and I was unable to get an uninterrupted time on the watches to do so. But at last worked out that the computer I took to see Bob the radio man at Easter had been altered so it would not talk to the radio. So having loaded the secondary computer with the appropriate software we now have a computer that talks to the radio and the Pactor modem that allows us get weather faxes and do e-mail. And a pleasant surprise awaited me as I fired it all up, we had mail waiting for us! You lovely people that left us messages, what a heart gladdener that was. So we are open for business – our address in MMVY5@sailmail.com. Text only, no pictures.
We took a day off and had an adventure getting the bus to Santiago de Compostela, a special place for Dave as he did the full 600 mile pilgrimage to Compostela, and then took me back to see the last part of the walk by car. The first bus arrived with no seats left, so by the time the second one turned up we got there too late for the Pilgrim’s Mass in the cathedral. We walked the old haunts and had a magic time, made the bus back and found Spirit is still here.
The way of life really agrees. Shops open 0930 to 1330 and the 1730 to 2030, coffee places all day. Bread is yummy, and the cold meats and cheese to die for. And then there is fish. And fish. And more fish. And all kinds of sea creatures in large trays in the fish market. Not to mention the fish swimming about the boat. Dave reckons these are common fish as they are only mullet. But then the mullet bring the dolphins in too, and they are good to watch playing.
Sunday was a big day in town as we found out when we went to Mass that is was First Communion day for about two dozen of the village children. Everyone was there, kids in white frocks and sailor suits, relatives dressed to the nines all excited and flourishing cameras. Thankfully we had arrived early and were able to get a seat while the church became more and more crowded. It is a lovely old building, dated 13th to 16th century. The bell tolls the hours, and the bell before Mass is rung by a chap up in the bell tower wielding a big hammer, making an awesome sound. After Mass when we went out of the church we found that there were as many people outside as inside, all in festive mood.
Things you notice:
The emphasis on families- all out together, dressed up, the children in classical children’s clothes, the teenagers modest while trendy, all chattering away together.
The babies dressed to the nines, matching bootees in soft leather and bonnets, frills everywhere.
The patience of adults with the kids.
The relaxed pace of life.
The patience of everyone with visitors.
The cockle pickers out in the bay at low tide, hordes of ladies with their skirts swirling in the water, chattering on ten to the dozen while they work their way along the sea bed filling floating baskets.
The customs men having a laugh a minute on board with us while we attempted to fill out their form, then waiting for their mates to come and collect them in the official boat.
And so much more