Saturday 3 July 2010

OFF TO NAZARE




Couldn't wait to fuel up and leave Bayona - another night of booming music would be the last thing we could cope with. So out we went and set off. We turned around about a mile out as the swell was going to be too awkward to set the poles and sort ourselves out, so we came in and anchored off the end of the third marina. Having had the obligatory cuppa, we started to mooch about and do the deck work, nd then I heard a little voice in my ear.
'Hey, Jen'
'Yes, Dave,'
'Time is getting on a bit'
'Hmmmmm, Dave?'
'We could stay here and go first thing in the morning when everything is tickety-boo and shipshape'
'What about the noise from the fun fair?'
'Might not be on tonight (flying pigs seen!)'
'Hmmm. OK, Dave' Not much persuasion needed here!
Maybe this is why we are a slow moving object!
And the noise was there but we were tucked away out of the direct line of maximum sound, so it was just bearable
It was a sensible decision though, as we were in for a 30 hour passage and the watch system does best if it is begun around the lunch time. So we chilled out and sorted ourselves and set off the next morning, all bright and shiny. At least it was all bright and shiny till the fog rolled in. We were aiming to be about 15-20 miles off the coast, and hopefully it would thin out, but in the meantime it would be more hazardous to go back. Eventually the wind died as well, so we were reduced to putting the engine on again. The fog continued through to the next day as well, and we had a couple of little flurries with close approaching fishing boats, and the AIS gadget told us ships were in the area but not near us; we did not see any of them. We approached Nazare in the early afternoon with just enough visibility to safely make the harbout entrance. As you can see it is a wee place, mainly for fishing boats and a few local boats and the occasional visitor. We had spoken to the chap in charge of the little nmarina before we set out, so we were expected and met on the pontoon. It was still foggy!
Evidently this fog is well known here, you just have to sit it out. It is one thing to be caught in it, but no way would we choose to be in it. The little harbour is great, and such a relief after Bayona. There is a little mini-supermercado on site which has a multitude of goods in the smallest of places, and wonderful home baked fresh bread twice a day. Next to it is the local bar, also in miniature, with one table and some chairs outside, but a huge TV inside for the local fishermen to watch the world cup football. The marina office is next door and has the showers and loos, and Captain Hadley and his wife Sally who run the place. I first spoke to Sally when she was in hospital as she had the work phone with her. She had had her hip replaced and was doing fine. We caught up with her the day after we arrived as she came out of hospital straight to the office! So we talked medical things, with her being a nurse and all, and when the chaps were getting bored got down to the business in hand, such as renting a car for our trip to Fatima and such like. Sally was ex-RN, her husband ex merchant navy, so you can imagine the banter going on. These two were on their way to Cyprus when they put in here for a night - that was 11 years ago and are firmly embedded into the life here.
We were in Nazare 4 years ago by car, when we were touring around during the trip Dave surprised me with for my birthday. Loved it so much it had to be a port of call. It too has become busy. It is more or less divided into two parts, the beach part and the upper part. The beach part is like any British beach gone wild and in the season is crowded. There are loads of little tent things in rows that you can hire, and so many beach balls for sale I cannot think they will run out before the next milenium.
The upper part is on the top of the cliff and is reached by cable car. There you find the large church and chapel, more houses and some governemt offices, and another row of shops all selling the same kind of unbelievable junk. It is disappointing that the local craft of lacemaking and crochet have been supplanted by this mass produced rubbish that is available anywhere.
We caught the local bus for the mile in to town, as I had banged my knee the day before and walking was not the best, and discovered the large market, ice cream shop and the cable car to the top. We found a copy of the Daily Telegraph (beggars can't be choosers!) to read with coffee and croissants, and then found we had just missed the bus back. So it was a slow toddle to the marina and a big feet up rest. Lovely day. Tomorrow we were to take possession of our hire car for more adventures.




These are the photos of the church and chapel up the top of the town on the hill. (And an example of the wares on offer)





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